Imagine stepping off a plane into a city where Buddhist monks spin prayer wheels alongside smartphone-wielding teenagers, where centuries-old temples stand mere metres from bustling cyber cafes, and where the scent of incense mingles with the aroma of freshly brewed chai. Welcome to the capital of Nepal—Kathmandu, a city that defies simple description and captures the hearts of travelers from Australia, the UK, the US, and Europe.
At 1,400 metres above sea level, nestled in a bowl-shaped valley surrounded by the Himalayan foothills, Kathmandu serves as the beating heart of Nepal. This isn’t just any capital city. It’s a living museum where every street corner tells a story spanning 2,000 years, where seven UNESCO World Heritage Sites sit within a single valley, and where the ancient and modern collide in the most fascinating ways.
Whether you’re planning your first adventure to the Himalayas, seeking spiritual enlightenment, or simply curious about what makes this mountain kingdom so special, you’ve arrived at the right place. This comprehensive guide covers everything you need to know about Kathmandu—from its rich history and cultural treasures to practical travel tips that will make your visit unforgettable.
Quick Overview:
- Official Status: Capital and largest city of Nepal since 1768
- Population: Approximately 1 million in the city; 4 million in the metro area
- Elevation: 1,400 metres (4,600 feet) above sea level
- UNESCO Sites: 7 World Heritage monuments within Kathmandu Valley
- Best Time to Visit: March-May (spring) and September-November (autumn)
- Gateway Function: Entry point for trekking, mountaineering, and cultural tourism
What Makes Kathmandu the Capital of Nepal?
The capital of Nepal wasn’t always situated in this valley. The title of national capital arrived in 1768 when Prithvi Narayan Shah, the visionary ruler of the Gorkha Kingdom, conquered the Kathmandu Valley and unified Nepal under one rule. His strategic decision to establish the capital here transformed not just the city, but the entire nation’s trajectory.
But why Kathmandu? The answer lies in geography, culture, and strategic brilliance.
Strategic Location at the Heart of the Himalayas
Kathmandu sits at the crossroads of ancient trade routes connecting India to Tibet and China. The Kathmandu Valley’s central position within Nepal made it the logical choice for governing the newly unified kingdom. Unlike remote mountain settlements or vulnerable border towns, this valley offered natural defenses with surrounding hills while remaining accessible from all directions.
The convergence of the Baghmati and Vishnumati rivers provided water resources essential for a growing capital. The fertile valley floor supported agriculture, feeding a concentrated population. The moderate climate—neither the sweltering heat of the Terai plains nor the frigid temperatures of high mountain regions—created comfortable living conditions year-round.
Cultural and Economic Powerhouse
Long before becoming the political capital, Kathmandu Valley served as Nepal’s cultural and economic centre. The indigenous Newar people had built sophisticated urban civilizations here, creating architectural masterpieces and establishing trade networks that brought wealth and cosmopolitan influence to the valley.
When Prithvi Narayan Shah made his decision, he recognized that controlling Kathmandu Valley meant controlling Nepal’s economic lifeline. The valley’s markets connected Himalayan trade, and its artisans produced goods renowned across Asia. By establishing the capital here, Shah cemented his power and ensured the new nation’s prosperity.
Religious and Spiritual Significance
The Kathmandu Valley holds profound religious importance for both Hindus and Buddhists. Ancient stupas like Swayambhunath date back more than 2,000 years. The Pashupatinath Temple ranks among Hinduism’s holiest sites. Buddhist pilgrims have journeyed here for centuries to pay homage at Boudhanath Stupa.
This spiritual heritage wasn’t incidental to Kathmandu’s selection as capital—it was central. A capital blessed by gods and revered by devotees carried legitimacy that military might alone couldn’t provide. The religious festivals, temples, and rituals created social cohesion that helped bind diverse ethnic groups into one nation.
Kathmandu Valley is More Than Just a City
When people say “the capital of Nepal,” they often mean the broader Kathmandu Valley rather than just Kathmandu city proper. This distinction matters for travelers because the valley’s treasures extend beyond municipal boundaries.
The Kathmandu Valley encompasses three ancient cities—Kathmandu, Patan (Lalitpur), and Bhaktapur—each once an independent kingdom with its own royal courts, traditions, and architectural styles. Today, Kathmandu and Patan have essentially merged into one urban sprawl, while Bhaktapur maintains more distinct separation, about 13 kilometres east of the capital.
The Valley’s Unique Geography
The bowl-shaped valley stretches approximately 25 kilometres from east to west and 20 kilometres north to south. Four major mountains surround it—Shivapuri, Phulchoki, Nagarjun, and Chandragiri—creating a natural amphitheatre that shapes the valley’s weather patterns and historical isolation.
This geographic isolation preserved the valley’s unique culture for centuries. Before modern roads connected Kathmandu to the outside world in the 1950s, reaching the capital meant walking for days through mountain passes. This remoteness created a greenhouse effect for cultural development, allowing the Newar civilization to flourish with minimal outside interference.
The valley floor, once filled with lakes according to geological evidence and local legend, provides rich agricultural land. The Baghmati River system drains the valley, flowing southward toward India. These rivers hold spiritual significance—particularly the Baghmati, which connects to the sacred Ganges system and hosts important Hindu rituals.
Three Ancient Cities, One Valley
Kathmandu (population approximately 1 million) serves as the modern administrative and commercial capital. Its Durbar Square, despite earthquake damage, remains the political heart where Nepal’s kings once held court. The densely packed streets of the old city contrast with newer developments sprawling in all directions.
Patan (population approximately 225,000), also called Lalitpur, meaning “City of Beauty,” lies just across the Baghmati River from Kathmandu. Patan’s artistic heritage rivals Kathmandu’s, with arguably even more refined Newar architecture. The city’s Durbar Square showcases stone and metal craftsmanship that represents the pinnacle of traditional artistry.
Bhaktapur (population approximately 80,000), meaning “City of Devotees,” maintains the most traditional character. With fewer vehicles and more open spaces, Bhaktapur feels like stepping into medieval Nepal. Potter’s Square here continues centuries-old ceramic traditions, while locals speak the Newari language more commonly than in the other two cities.
The UNESCO World Heritage Sites Nepal Treasures
The capital of Nepal boasts an extraordinary concentration of cultural treasures. Seven separate monument zones within the Kathmandu Valley earned collective designation as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1979. This makes the valley one of the world’s most remarkable repositories of historic architecture and living culture.
Let’s explore each of these seven UNESCO World Heritage Sites Nepal proudly preserves:
Kathmandu Durbar Square: The Royal Heart
Also known as Hanuman Dhoka (named after the monkey god Hanuman, whose statue guards the palace entrance), Kathmandu Durbar Square represents over 500 years of royal history. The square served as the royal palace complex for the Malla kings and later the Shah dynasty until 1886.
Walking through the square feels like entering an open-air museum. The buildings showcase classic Newari pagoda-style architecture with multiple tiered roofs, intricate wood carvings, and ornate brick work. The nine-storey Basantapur Tower offers panoramic valley views (when open). The Taleju Temple, dedicated to the Malla dynasty’s patron goddess, dominates the square’s skyline.
One unique feature draws particular attention—the Kumari Ghar, home to the Kumari, Nepal’s “living goddess.” The Kumari is a young girl selected to embody the Hindu goddess Taleju. She makes brief appearances at her window, and photographers are strictly forbidden. The tradition continues unbroken, representing the deep interweaving of religion and monarchy in Nepal’s history.
The 2015 earthquake severely damaged Durbar Square, toppling several important structures including the historic Kasthamandap temple (from which Kathmandu likely derives its name). Ongoing restoration work continues, but the square remains open and vibrant, filled with locals going about daily business and tourists exploring the architectural wonders.
Patan Durbar Square: Artistic Excellence
Patan’s Durbar Square may be smaller than Kathmandu’s, but many consider it artistically superior. The concentration of temples here is remarkable—the square and immediate surroundings contain several dozen shrines and temples, each demonstrating exquisite craftsmanship.
The stone work at Patan particularly impresses. The Krishna Mandir (Krishna Temple), built in 1637, differs from typical Newari pagoda architecture with its stone shikhara style (similar to Indian temples). Its first-floor frieze depicts scenes from the Hindu epics Ramayana and Mahabharata, requiring years to fully appreciate.
The old royal palace at Patan houses three main courtyards (chowks), each with distinct character and purpose. The Mul Chowk served religious functions. The Sundari Chowk contains an incredibly ornate stone bath. The Keshav Narayan Chowk displays the palace’s residential sections. The palace now includes the Patan Museum, which holds one of Nepal’s finest collections of traditional art and metalwork.
Bhaktapur Durbar Square: Medieval Grandeur
Bhaktapur’s Durbar Square feels the most spacious of the three royal squares. The open plazas allow you to appreciate the architecture from proper viewing distances. The square represents the artistic achievements of the Malla period, particularly the 17th-18th centuries when Bhaktapur competed with Kathmandu and Patan for prestige.
The 55-Window Palace, built in 1427 and renovated in the 17th century, dominates one side of the square. Its name comes from the characteristic windows with intricate wooden latticework. The Golden Gate entrance to the palace ranks among Nepal’s most photographed landmarks, showcasing metalwork gilded in gold.
Several remarkable temples surround the square. The Vatsala Temple, with its distinctive shikhara style, sits on a raised platform. Nearby, the enormous bell (called the “barking dogs bell” because legend says its ringing made dogs howl) was cast in the early 18th century.
Swayambhunath: The Monkey Temple
Perched atop a hill overlooking Kathmandu, Swayambhunath Stupa offers both spiritual significance and spectacular valley views. The site’s history stretches back over 2,000 years, making it one of the world’s oldest Buddhist monuments. Legend claims the valley’s lake drained from this very spot, allowing human settlement.
The stupa itself follows classic Buddhist architectural principles. A massive white hemisphere (garbha) represents the earth. Above it, a golden square structure (harmika) displays the all-seeing eyes of Buddha gazing in four directions. The 13-tiered spire symbolizes the path to enlightenment. Prayer flags flutter in every direction, carrying mantras on the wind.
The name “Monkey Temple” comes from the large population of rhesus macaques living on the hill. These monkeys consider the site their territory and often snatch food from unsuspecting visitors. While they add character, watch your belongings carefully.
To reach the stupa, most visitors climb 365 steps winding up the hillside. The ascent provides exercise and anticipation. Along the way, smaller shrines, prayer wheels, and vendors selling offerings create atmosphere. The view from the top, especially at sunset, rewards the climb with sweeping panoramas of the Kathmandu Valley.
Boudhanath Stupa: Tibetan Buddhism’s Jewel
Located about 11 kilometres northeast of central Kathmandu, Boudhanath Stupa is one of the world’s largest Buddhist stupas and the centre of Tibetan culture in Nepal. After the Chinese invasion of Tibet in 1959, thousands of Tibetan refugees settled around Boudhanath, transforming the area into “Little Tibet.”
The stupa’s massive mandala makes it visible from great distances. The structure follows Tibetan Buddhist architectural principles with its octagonal base, dome, and spire. The design creates a three-dimensional representation of Buddhist cosmology. The all-seeing eyes painted on the harmika watch in four cardinal directions, while the nose (which looks like a question mark) represents the number one in Nepali script, symbolizing unity.
Walking clockwise around the stupa (called circumambulation or kora) is a key devotional practice. Pilgrims spin prayer wheels mounted around the base as they walk, each spin equivalent to reciting the mantras inscribed within. The atmosphere fills with the scent of incense, the murmur of prayers, and the flutter of hundreds of prayer flags strung from the stupa’s peak.
Surrounding the stupa, dozens of monasteries (gompas) create a thriving religious community. Some welcome visitors to observe prayer ceremonies. The rooftop restaurants and cafes offer excellent vantage points for watching the evening prayer rituals when monks and locals gather to circumambulate the stupa with butter lamps.
Pashupatinath Temple: Hinduism’s Sacred Heart
On the banks of the holy Baghmati River, about six kilometres east of central Kathmandu, sits Pashupatinath Temple—one of Hinduism’s most sacred sites. Dedicated to Lord Shiva in his form as Pashupati (Lord of Animals), the temple complex attracts Hindu pilgrims from across South Asia, particularly during the festival of Maha Shivaratri when hundreds of thousands gather.
The main temple, with its distinctive gold-plated roof and silver doors, dates to the 17th century, though the site’s religious significance extends much further back. Only Hindus may enter the main temple courtyard, but visitors of all faiths can explore the extensive complex and observe from the opposite riverbank.
What makes Pashupatinath particularly distinctive (and confronting for some visitors) is the open-air cremation ghats along the river. Hindu funeral rites occur here daily, with bodies cremated on wooden pyres beside the flowing water. While this might sound morbid, Hindus consider it an honour to be cremated at Pashupatinath, with ashes scattered in the sacred Baghmati River (which eventually joins the Ganges).
The riverbank’s opposite side features terraced platforms where visitors sit to observe the cremations and temple activities. The presence of death sits alongside vibrant life—sadhus (holy men) meditate in colorful robes, monkeys play among the temples, and locals conduct daily worship. This juxtaposition embodies Hindu philosophy about life’s cyclical nature.
Changu Narayan: The Oldest Temple
Perched on a hilltop about 12 kilometres east of Kathmandu, Changu Narayan Temple holds the title of Nepal’s oldest Hindu temple, with the earliest stone inscriptions dating to 464 AD. Dedicated to Lord Vishnu, the temple showcases Licchavi-era (4th-8th century) art and architecture that influenced all subsequent Nepalese temple building.
The temple compound contains Nepal’s finest collection of stone, wood, and metal sculptures from the Licchavi period. The 10 incarnations of Vishnu are depicted in remarkable detail. Stone inscriptions recording the deeds of ancient kings provide invaluable historical information. Every pillar, strut, and doorway displays intricate carvings that demonstrate the sophisticated artistry of 1,500 years ago.
The surrounding village of Changu retains traditional Newari character, with narrow lanes, traditional houses with carved windows, and a slower pace of life. The hilltop location offers excellent views across the valley toward Bhaktapur. Fewer tourists reach Changu Narayan compared to the other sites, creating a more peaceful atmosphere for appreciation.
Kathmandu’s Compelling History: From Ancient Kingdom to Modern Capital
Understanding the capital of Nepal requires delving into its layered history, which stretches back more than two millennia and encompasses legendary kings, artistic dynasties, and dramatic transformations.
Ancient Beginnings and the Licchavi Dynasty
Archaeological evidence suggests human settlement in the Kathmandu Valley began around 2,500 years ago, possibly earlier. The oldest artifact discovered in the valley—a statue found in Maligaon—dates to 185 AD, though inscriptions and structures suggest the area flourished even before that date.
The Licchavi dynasty, ruling from approximately the 4th to 9th centuries AD, represents the first historically documented period when the valley developed as a major center. The Licchavis, who likely came from northern India, introduced Hindu traditions while tolerating and often supporting Buddhism. They established trade connections northward through the Himalayas to Tibet and China, transforming Kathmandu from a remote valley into an international crossroads.
Licchavi kings patronized art and architecture, commissioning many temples whose ruins or descendants survive today. Stone inscriptions in Sanskrit document their reigns, providing glimpses into governance, religious practices, and daily life. This era laid the cultural foundations that define Kathmandu Valley to this day.
The Malla Period: Golden Age of Arts
The Malla dynasty’s rule (roughly 12th to 18th centuries) represents Kathmandu Valley’s cultural golden age. Under Malla kings, Newari art, architecture, and literature reached unprecedented heights. The pagoda-style temples, intricate wood carvings, and distinctive urban planning that characterize Kathmandu today emerged during this period.
The Malla era also saw the valley divided into three competing kingdoms—Kathmandu, Patan, and Bhaktapur—each ruled by branches of the Malla family. This division created fierce rivalry, with each city trying to outdo the others in artistic achievement and religious devotion. The result was an explosion of creative output. Every city built elaborate palaces, commissioned magnificent temples, and hosted elaborate festivals to demonstrate superiority.
King Jayasthiti Malla (reigned approximately 1382-1395) introduced comprehensive legal and social codes based on Hindu principles, shaping Nepalese society for centuries. His successor, Yaksha Malla (reigned approximately 1429-1482), expanded Kathmandu’s influence but divided the kingdom among his sons upon death, creating the three separate royal courts.
Despite political fragmentation, the Malla period saw flourishing trade, particularly with Tibet. Newari merchants and artisans traveled extensively, with some settling permanently in Tibet and China. This commercial success funded the artistic patronage that created most of Kathmandu’s architectural treasures.
Unification and the Shah Dynasty
In 1768, Prithvi Narayan Shah, king of the small hill principality of Gorkha, completed his conquest of the Kathmandu Valley by capturing all three Malla kingdoms. This victory represented the culmination of a decades-long military campaign and marked the birth of modern Nepal.
Prithvi Narayan Shah moved his capital from Gorkha to Kathmandu, recognizing the valley’s strategic, economic, and symbolic importance. His vision of a unified Nepal required a capital that commanded respect and could serve as an effective administrative centre. Kathmandu, with its wealth, culture, and central location, fit perfectly.
The Shah dynasty ruled Nepal from Kathmandu for the next 240 years, though often with limited actual power. From 1846 to 1951, the Rana family served as hereditary prime ministers, effectively controlling the country while the Shah kings remained ceremonial figureheads. The Ranas isolated Nepal from outside contact, keeping the capital sealed from foreign influence.
Opening to the World
The 1950s brought dramatic change. A revolution supported by India restored power to King Tribhuvan, ending Rana rule. More importantly, Nepal opened its borders to the outside world after centuries of isolation. The capital of Nepal, so long hidden from foreign eyes, suddenly became accessible.
The first roads connecting Kathmandu to India were completed in the 1950s, ending the valley’s physical isolation. Tribhuvan International Airport opened, bringing visitors who previously would have required weeks of mountain trekking to reach the capital. The first Western tourists arrived, drawn by Kathmandu’s exotic culture and its gateway position for Himalayan exploration.
This opening brought modernization alongside challenges. Traditional culture faced pressure from outside influences. Rapid urbanization strained infrastructure built for a much smaller population. Yet the capital adapted, blending old and new in ways that continue to define its character.
Recent Turbulence and Transformation
The late 20th and early 21st centuries brought political upheaval. A Maoist insurgency from 1996-2006 created instability, though the capital saw less violence than rural areas. In 2001, a shocking palace massacre killed most of the royal family, creating a succession crisis and deepening political turmoil.
The Maoist conflict ended with a peace agreement in 2006. The following year, Nepal’s interim government abolished the 240-year-old monarchy, and the capital of Nepal transitioned from royal seat to republican capital. Elections in 2008 formalized Nepal as a federal democratic republic, fundamentally transforming governance.
The April 2015 earthquake struck at the heart of Kathmandu’s heritage. The magnitude 7.8 quake killed nearly 9,000 people nationwide and severely damaged many historic structures. In Kathmandu Valley, several UNESCO World Heritage Site monuments collapsed or sustained serious damage. The destruction of the ancient Kasthamandap temple—the structure from which Kathmandu likely takes its name—symbolized the tragic losses.
Recovery continues. Major temples have been rebuilt using traditional techniques and materials. The resilience of Kathmandu’s people, coupled with international support, has gradually restored many damaged sites. The capital carries these scars but continues evolving, determined to preserve its heritage while building a modern future.
What to Experience in the Capital of Nepal
Beyond historic monuments, Kathmandu pulses with daily life that captivates visitors. Understanding what makes the city tick helps you appreciate it beyond surface tourism.
The Sensory Assault of Thamel
Thamel district serves as Kathmandu’s tourist hub—a place travelers either love or find overwhelming. Narrow lanes pack together trekking shops, restaurants, bars, budget hotels, travel agencies, and souvenir stores. Signs in English advertise everything from yak cheese to yoga classes. Touts call out to passersby, offering tiger balm or trekking packages.
The sensory experience is intense. Motorcycles weave through crowds, honking constantly. Vendors grill momos (Tibetan dumplings) on street corners. Music spills from bars and cafes. The air carries scents of incense, curry, diesel fumes, and street food in shifting combinations. For newcomers to Asia, Thamel can feel chaotic to the point of stress. For experienced travelers, it represents familiar territory—the backpacker district found in countless Asian cities.
Yet Thamel serves practical purposes. You can buy or rent any trekking gear needed. Money changers operate openly with reasonable rates. Restaurants serve reliable Western food when you need a break from dal bhat (rice and lentils). Internet cafes and mobile phone shops solve connectivity issues. Pharmacies stock medications and toiletries. Tour agencies arrange everything from jungle safaris to mountain flights.
If Thamel’s energy becomes too much, simply walk a few blocks in any direction. Kathmandu’s quieter neighbourhoods lie just beyond the tourist zone.
Asan Tole: The Real Kathmandu
For a taste of authentic local life, head to Asan Tole, a traditional market square in old Kathmandu. This has been a trading hub for centuries, and the practice continues essentially unchanged. Early morning brings vegetable vendors arranging produce in vibrant displays. Spice sellers offer pyramids of turmeric, chilies, and cumin. Hardware merchants sell everything from prayer bells to padlocks.
The buildings surrounding Asan Tole showcase traditional Newari architecture—multi-storey structures with carved wooden windows and brick exteriors aged by centuries. Small shrines at intersections receive flowers and offerings from passersby. The square fills with locals shopping, chatting, and going about daily business with little notice of occasional tourists.
Street food vendors set up around Asan, serving traditional Newari snacks like bara (lentil patties), chatamari (rice crepes), and sel roti (crispy rice bread). This is where Kathmandu’s culinary heritage lives, not in tourist restaurants. Trying the street food (from busy stalls that clearly maintain good hygiene) offers genuine cultural immersion.
Garden of Dreams: An Oasis of Calm
When Kathmandu’s chaos becomes overwhelming, the Garden of Dreams provides refuge. This neo-classical garden, restored to its early 20th-century grandeur, offers manicured lawns, ornate pavilions, and flowering plants. Located just minutes from the main tourist areas, the garden feels worlds away from Kathmandu’s traffic and noise.
The Kaiser Mahal Garden (its formal name) was built in the 1920s as a private garden for Field Marshal Kaiser Shamsher Rana. After decades of decay, restoration funded by the Austrian government reopened the garden to the public in 2007. The six pavilions represent different architectural styles, from Greek-inspired columns to Mughal arches.
The on-site Kaiser Café serves excellent coffee and European-inspired meals in a pleasant setting. Many travelers and expats treat the Garden of Dreams as a regular retreat—a place to read, work on laptops, or simply decompress. The entrance fee (a few dollars) keeps crowds manageable while providing funds for maintenance.
Food Scene: Beyond Dal Bhat
The capital of Nepal offers diverse dining options that reflect the country’s geography and international connections. Traditional Nepali cuisine centers on dal bhat—rice served with lentil soup, vegetable curry, pickles, and often a small amount of meat. This meal fuels locals and trekkers alike with its balanced nutrition and unlimited refills.
However, Kathmandu’s food scene extends far beyond this staple. Newari cuisine, indigenous to the Kathmandu Valley, includes dishes rarely found elsewhere. Chatamari (sometimes called “Nepali pizza”) is a rice crepe topped with meat, eggs, or vegetables. Choila features spiced grilled buffalo meat. Kwati soup, made with nine types of sprouted beans, appears during festivals.
The Tibetan refugee community brought momos, now ubiquitous across Nepal. These steamed or fried dumplings come with various fillings—buff (water buffalo), chicken, vegetables, or cheese. Thukpa, a hearty noodle soup, provides comfort on cold evenings.
International food in Kathmandu ranges from mediocre Western imitations to genuine culinary gems. Indian restaurants serve authentic regional cuisines. Thai, Chinese, Japanese, and Korean restaurants cater to Asian tourists and expats. Italian and French restaurants, some run by European chefs, provide surprisingly good Western food.
For budget travelers, Kathmandu delivers excellent value. A full meal at a local restaurant costs $2-4. Mid-range restaurants charge $8-15 for dinner. Only high-end hotel restaurants and fine dining establishments exceed $25 per person.
Festivals: When Kathmandu Comes Alive
The capital of Nepal hosts festivals throughout the year, many celebrating for days or weeks. These festivals showcase the city’s religious diversity and provide intimate glimpses into local culture.
Dashain (September-October), Nepal’s biggest festival, celebrates the goddess Durga’s victory over evil. Families reunite, elders give blessings, and communities sacrifice animals in temple rituals. The 15-day festival brings Kathmandu nearly to a standstill as locals travel to ancestral villages.
Tihar (October-November), the festival of lights, honors various beings over five days—crows, dogs, cows, oxen, and siblings. Homes and businesses decorate with oil lamps and colorful rangoli patterns. On the fifth day, sisters apply tika to their brothers’ foreheads, praying for long life.
Indra Jatra (September) celebrates Indra, king of heaven, with an eight-day festival centered on Kathmandu Durbar Square. The highlight involves pulling massive chariots carrying the Kumari through crowded streets while masked dancers perform traditional dramas.
Holi (February-March), the festival of colors, transforms Kathmandu into a playful battleground. People throw colored powder and water balloons at friends and strangers alike. Tourists who venture out should expect to get drenched and dyed. Travel to Nepal Holi (February-March), the festival of colors, transforms Kathmandu into a playful battleground. People throw colored powder and water balloons at friends and strangers alike. Tourists who venture out should expect to get drenched and dyed.
Maha Shivaratri (February-March) brings enormous crowds to Pashupatinath Temple, with hundreds of thousands of Hindu pilgrims arriving from across South Asia. Sadhus gather, devotees fast and pray all night, and the air fills with smoke from sacred fires.
Experiencing a major festival in the capital of Nepal provides unforgettable memories, but requires patience with crowds and accept that many services may be limited during celebrations.
Practical Information for Visiting the Capital of Nepal
Planning a trip to Kathmandu requires understanding logistics, seasons, and practical considerations that affect your experience.
When to Visit Kathmandu
Kathmandu’s climate features distinct seasons influenced by the monsoon and elevation. Choosing the right time shapes your experience significantly.
Spring (March-May) brings warm, pleasant days with temperatures ranging from 20-28°C (68-82°F). Trees bloom, particularly rhododendrons in nearby hills. The weather stays mostly dry, though occasional pre-monsoon thunderstorms occur in late April and May. This season sees peak tourist traffic as trekkers head to the mountains. Air pollution can be noticeable as winter’s lingering haze hasn’t fully cleared.
Summer/Monsoon (June-August) delivers heavy rainfall, particularly July and August when clouds dump 70% of the year’s precipitation. Temperatures stay moderate (20-30°C/68-86°F) but high humidity makes it feel muggy. The mountains remain hidden behind clouds most days. This is Kathmandu’s low season—fewer tourists, lower prices, and a greener valley. If you don’t mind rain and can’t see mountains anyway, summer offers a different perspective on Kathmandu life.
Autumn (September-November) provides ideal conditions. After the monsoon clears, skies turn crystal blue. Temperatures stay comfortable (15-25°C/59-77°F). Mountain views are spectacular. Major festivals like Dashain and Tihar occur, adding cultural richness. This is the busiest season for tourism, so book accommodations and trekking permits well ahead. The downside is significant air pollution, particularly in November as crop burning occurs in surrounding areas and winter’s temperature inversions trap particulates.
Winter (December-February) brings cold mornings and evenings (often 2-5°C/36-41°F) but warm afternoon sunshine (15-20°C/59-68°F). The mountains appear magnificent against clear skies, though morning fog can obscure views. Tourist numbers drop after December’s holidays, creating a quieter atmosphere. Pack warm layers as many budget accommodations lack heating. Air quality reaches its worst in December-January as winter inversions trap pollution.
Visa Requirements
Most travelers to the capital of Nepal receive visas on arrival at Tribhuvan International Airport. The process is straightforward but involves steps:
You can complete the online visa application before arrival (recommended to save time) or use kiosk machines at the airport. The form requests basic information—name, passport details, planned accommodation, purpose of visit (choose “tourism”), and planned departure date.
At immigration, present your completed form, passport (with six months validity remaining), and visa fee in US dollars: $30 for 15 days, $50 for 30 days, or $125 for 90 days. You’ll also need a passport photo, though the airport has photo booths if needed.
The visa allows multiple entries during its validity, useful if you’re combining Nepal with visits to nearby countries. Extending your visa while in Nepal is possible through the Department of Immigration in Kathmandu, though the process involves paperwork and fees.
Citizens of most countries receive visas on arrival. However, nationals of some countries (primarily Nigeria, Ghana, Zimbabwe, Swaziland, Cameroon, Somalia, Liberia, Ethiopia, Iraq, Palestine, and Afghanistan) must obtain visas from embassies before travel. Check current requirements before booking flights.
Getting to Kathmandu
By Air: Tribhuvan International Airport (KTM) serves as Nepal’s only international airport. Airlines connect Kathmandu with major hubs in Asia, the Middle East, and Europe. Common connection points include Delhi, Dubai, Singapore, Bangkok, Hong Kong, and Kuala Lumpur.
Direct flights from Europe, Australia, or the Americas don’t exist. Travelers from the UK typically connect through Middle Eastern hubs or India. Americans often route through Asian cities. Australians find convenient connections via Singapore, Kuala Lumpur, or Bangkok.
The airport sits just five kilometres from central Kathmandu, though traffic can extend travel time to 30-45 minutes. Pre-paid taxis from the official counter inside the arrivals hall cost around 700-1000 Nepali rupees ($5-7) to most destinations. Ride-hailing apps like Pathao and InDrive also operate but require local SIM cards.
By Road: Overland entry from India is possible at several border crossings. The most common for reaching Kathmandu are Sunauli-Bhairahawa (Nepali border town), which connects to Varanasi and north India, and Raxaul-Birgunj, which connects to Kolkata. From border towns, buses travel to Kathmandu (8-12 hours), though quality varies dramatically.
A new cross-border train connects Jainagar, India, with Janakpur, Nepal. From Janakpur, buses reach Kathmandu in 7-10 hours. This remains uncommon for international travelers but offers an option for the adventurous.
Overland travel from Tibet/China is theoretically possible but requires special permits and can be closed without notice due to political sensitivities. Most overlanders travel from Nepal to Tibet rather than vice versa.
By being the Tapioca of two stones, Nepal is recognized as one of the beautiful places in the world.
