First Summit of Everest: 7 Epic Facts About History’s Greatest Climb

Quick Overview of first person summit Everest:

• Date of First Summit: 29 May 1953
• First Climbers: Edmund Hillary (New Zealand) and Tenzing Norgay (Nepal)
• Expedition Leader: John Hunt (British)
• Time at Summit: 15 minutes
• Most Everest Summits: Kami Rita Sherpa (30 times as of 2024)

The story of the first person to climb Everest remains one of humanity’s most remarkable achievements. On 29 May 1953, Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay achieved what many thought impossible. They became the first people to stand atop the world’s highest peak at 8,848.86 metres. This historic moment wasn’t just a mountaineering triumph. It represented decades of determination, sacrifice, and the unbreakable bond between two extraordinary climbers from different worlds.

The question about who was the first person summit Everest captivates adventure enthusiasts even today, more than 70 years after that momentous day. While thousands have since followed in their footsteps, the pioneering spirit of Hillary and Norgay’s achievement continues inspiring climbers worldwide. Their partnership intertwines with Nepal’s rich mountaineering heritage, transforming the Himalayan nation into the ultimate destination for high-altitude adventures.

Understanding this legendary first summit Everest story provides essential context for anyone planning their own Everest Base Camp trekking journey or dreaming of following in these legends’ footsteps. The legacy of that 1953 expedition shaped modern mountaineering and established Nepal as the heartland of Himalayan exploration.

The Historic First Ascent: Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay

The achievement of becoming the first person to climb Everest wasn’t a solo effort but a partnership that exemplified international cooperation. Edmund Hillary, a beekeeper from New Zealand, and Tenzing Norgay, a Sherpa mountaineer from the Khumbu region, reached the summit together on 29 May 1953 at 11:30 AM local time.

Their success came as part of the ninth British expedition, led by Colonel John Hunt. The team established a series of camps up the South Col route, with Hillary and Norgay making the final push from Camp IX at 8,500 metres.

Key Facts About the First Ascent

Summit Day Challenges:

• Navigated the treacherous Hillary Step at 8,790 metres
• Used primitive oxygen systems weighing over 14 kilograms
• Endured temperatures dropping to minus 40 degrees Celsius
• Wore leather boots and wool clothing for protection
• Spent only 15 minutes at the summit due to oxygen limitations

Historic Moments at the Top:

• Tenzing left food offerings to Buddhist deities
• Hillary photographed the surrounding peaks
• Both searched for evidence of earlier expeditions
• Norgay held his ice axe with flags from four nations
• Created one of mountaineering’s most iconic photographs

The climb required exceptional skill, endurance, and courage. The Hillary Step presented the expedition’s most technically challenging section. This nearly vertical 12-metre rock face tested Hillary’s climbing abilities to their limits.

What made this first ascent particularly remarkable was the equipment limitations. Modern climbers benefit from technology unimaginable in 1953. Their successful climb proved that Mount Everest was conquerable and opened doors for future expeditions.

The partnership between Hillary and Norgay represented perfect complementary skills. Hillary’s technical climbing expertise combined with Norgay’s intimate Himalayan knowledge and exceptional high-altitude capabilities. This collaboration established a template for successful expeditions that continues today, with international climbers working alongside experienced Nepali guides.

The descent proved equally challenging. Navigating down through the Everest death zone exhausted both climbers completely. They safely returned to Camp IV, where expedition member George Lowe greeted them with hot soup. News reached London on 2 June 1953, the morning of Queen Elizabeth II’s coronation, creating a sensation that captured global imagination.

The Journey Before Success: Failed Expeditions and Lessons Learned

The first person summit Everest story didn’t begin in 1953. Decades of failed attempts, tragic losses, and accumulated knowledge paved the way for Hillary and Norgay’s triumph.

Early Expedition Timeline

1921 Reconnaissance:

• British launched first reconnaissance expedition
• George Mallory and Guy Bullock mapped potential routes
• Team reached 7,000 metres without summit attempt
• Mallory coined the famous phrase: “Because it’s there”

1924 Tragedy:

• George Mallory and Andrew Irvine disappeared during summit attempt
• Whether they reached the top remains mountaineering’s greatest mystery
• Mallory’s body wasn’t discovered until 1999 at 8,155 metres
• Most historians credit Hillary and Norgay as confirmed summiteers

1933 and 1934 Attempts:

• 1933 expedition reached 8,570 metres before fierce winds forced retreat
• Maurice Wilson attempted unauthorized solo climb in 1934
• Wilson died at approximately 6,900 metres
• His body discovery served as sobering reminder of Everest’s dangers

Swiss Near Success:

• Spring and autumn 1952 expeditions came remarkably close
• Tenzing Norgay with Raymond Lambert reached 8,595 metres
• This experience proved invaluable for Norgay’s 1953 success
• Demonstrated South Col route through Nepal offered viable path

These failed expeditions taught critical lessons about acclimatisation, oxygen systems, route selection, and weather windows. Each attempt added to collective knowledge, making eventual success possible. The sacrifices of earlier climbers, including several frozen bodies on Everest remaining today, remind us that triumph came at tremendous human cost.

Lessons That Enabled Success

Technical Improvements:

• Better oxygen equipment design
• Improved cold weather clothing
• Enhanced rope and climbing gear
• Strategic camp placement knowledge

Physiological Understanding:

• Importance of gradual acclimatisation
• Hydration needs at extreme altitude
• Caloric requirements for summit pushes
• Recognition of altitude sickness symptoms

The 1953 expedition benefited from all accumulated wisdom. Colonel John Hunt’s meticulous planning, improved equipment, and strategic high camp placement reflected lessons from previous failures. The expedition also benefited from stronger relationships with Nepali Sherpas, who provided essential support throughout.

Who Was Tenzing Norgay? Nepal’s Mountaineering Legend

Tenzing Norgay Sherpa, born Namgyal Wangdi in 1914 in Thame near the Everest region, became one of mountaineering’s most celebrated figures. His journey from young yak herder to achieving the first ascent exemplifies determination, skill, and cultural pride.

Early Mountaineering Career

Tenzing’s career began in the 1930s when he joined expeditions as a porter. His natural talent for high-altitude climbing quickly became apparent. He progressed from carrying loads to becoming a full expedition member. By 1953, Tenzing had participated in six previous Everest expeditions, gaining unmatched mountain experience.

Career Highlights Before 1953:

• Started as porter in 1930s expeditions
• Developed exceptional high-altitude abilities
• Participated in six Everest expeditions before 1953
• Reached 8,595 metres with Raymond Lambert in 1952
• Established reputation as elite high-altitude climber

His 1952 partnership with Swiss climber Raymond Lambert demonstrated exceptional capabilities. They reached 8,595 metres without supplemental oxygen, a remarkable feat establishing Tenzing as one of the world’s elite climbers. This experience made him the obvious choice for the 1953 British expedition’s summit attempt.

Local Knowledge Advantage

Tenzing’s knowledge of the Khumbu region proved invaluable. He understood the mountain’s moods, weather patterns, and technical challenges intimately. His physical conditioning, developed through years living and working at altitude, gave him natural advantages that sea-level climbers spent months achieving through acclimatisation.

The question of who first stepped onto the summit sparked unnecessary controversy afterwards. Both men maintained they reached the top together as a team, refusing to diminish their partnership.

Pro Tip: When planning your Everest Base Camp trek, working with experienced Sherpa guides provides invaluable local knowledge, just as Tenzing’s expertise proved crucial in 1953.

Legacy and Honors

Following the first person to climb Everest achievement, Tenzing became director of the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute in Darjeeling, India. There he trained generations of climbers. He received numerous honours:

• George Medal from the United Kingdom
• Star of Nepal
• Honorary citizenship from Nepal and India
• International recognition as mountaineering pioneer

His legacy continues through his family. His son Jamling Tenzing Norgay reached Everest’s summit in 1996, continuing the family’s mountaineering tradition.

Tenzing’s story embodies the crucial role Nepali Sherpas play in Himalayan mountaineering. Without their expertise, local knowledge, and extraordinary physical capabilities, most expeditions would fail. Today, aspiring climbers work with experienced female trekking guides in Nepal who carry forward Tenzing’s pioneering spirit.

Edmund Hillary: The Beekeeper Who Conquered Everest

Edmund Percival Hillary, born 20 July 1919 in Auckland, New Zealand, became the other half of mountaineering’s most famous partnership. Before sharing the first summit Everest story with the world, Hillary lived an ordinary life as a beekeeper, though his climbing passion transformed him into one of history’s greatest adventurers.

Building Mountain Experience

Hillary’s mountaineering journey began in New Zealand’s Southern Alps. There he developed technical climbing skills on ice and rock. His first Himalayan expedition came in 1951 when he joined a reconnaissance mission. The experience gave him crucial knowledge of southern approaches and established his reputation as a strong, reliable climber.

Physical Attributes:

• Stood 1.93 metres tall with exceptional strength
• Possessed endurance needed for high-altitude climbing
• Combined practical problem-solving with natural boldness
• Methodical approach to technical challenges

When faced with the near-vertical Hillary Step during the final summit push, he didn’t hesitate. He removed his oxygen mask, wedged himself into a crack, and pulled himself up through sheer determination. This moment exemplified his climbing philosophy and technical skill.

Humanitarian Legacy in Nepal

Hillary’s post-Everest life demonstrated remarkable character. Rather than simply capitalising on fame, he dedicated himself to helping Nepali people, particularly Sherpa communities of the Khumbu region.

Himalayan Trust Achievements:

• Established in 1960 to support mountain communities
• Built 30 schools throughout the Everest region
• Constructed two hospitals serving remote areas
• Built numerous bridges improving mountain infrastructure
• Created first school ever in the Khumbu region at Khumjung village

Local communities remember Hillary not primarily for conquering Everest but for decades of humanitarian work improving their lives. His relationship with Nepal remained strong throughout his life. He visited regularly, maintained close friendships with Sherpa families, and advocated internationally for Himalayan communities.

Pro Tip: Hillary’s humanitarian approach set ethical standards for modern mountaineering. When you visit Nepal, supporting local businesses and guides directly benefits communities, honouring this legacy.

Philosophy and Recognition

His philosophy towards mountaineering emphasised teamwork, humility, and respect for local cultures. Hillary consistently credited Tenzing as an equal partner and spoke passionately about contributions of all expedition members and Sherpa support staff.

New Zealand honoured him by featuring his face on the $5 note, the only New Zealander so recognised during his lifetime. Hillary passed away on 11 January 2008 at age 88. Nepal declared four days of national mourning, an honour rarely extended to foreign nationals.

His legacy lives on through the Himalayan Trust’s continued work and through every climber who approaches Mount Everest with respect for the mountain and its people.

Who Has Climbed Everest the Most Times?

Whilst Hillary and Tenzing achieved the historic first person to climb Everest moment, subsequent decades have seen remarkable repeat summiteers push high-altitude mountaineering boundaries. The answer to who has climbed Everest the most times highlights extraordinary capabilities of Nepali Sherpas.

Record Holders and Achievements

Kami Rita Sherpa – World Record Holder:

• Holds world record with 30 successful summits as of May 2024
• Born in 1970 in Thame village, same birthplace as Tenzing Norgay
• First summited in 1994
• Typically summits multiple times each climbing season
• Works as professional guide fixing ropes for expeditions

Top Five Most Frequent Summiteers:

• Kami Rita Sherpa: 30 summits
• Pasang Dawa Sherpa: 28 summits
• Apa Sherpa: 21 summits
• Phurba Tashi Sherpa: 21 summits
• All are Nepali Sherpas demonstrating unmatched capabilities

These achievements required decades of dedication, exceptional physical conditioning, and profound understanding of Everest’s challenges. These repeat summiteers work primarily as professional guides and high-altitude workers.

The Work Behind Multiple Summits

Responsibilities Include:

• Establishing camps at various altitudes
• Fixing ropes through dangerous sections like Khumbu Icefall
• Carrying supplies to high camps
• Guiding clients to summit safely
• Spending extended periods in death zone

Pro Tip: Understanding how much climbing Everest costs reveals that guide fees represent significant investment, reflecting these professionals’ invaluable expertise and risk.

Physical Toll and Risks

The physical toll of multiple Everest ascents is severe:

• Prolonged altitude exposure damages cardiovascular systems
• Increased stroke risk with repeated high-altitude exposure
• Permanent changes to lung capacity and brain function
• Despite risks, many continue guiding for family income

Female Summit Records

Female climbers have also achieved remarkable repeat summits. Lhakpa Sherpa holds the women’s record with 10 successful Everest ascents, more than any female climber in history. Her achievements inspire women throughout Nepal and demonstrate that high-altitude mountaineering excellence transcends gender.

The commercial mountaineering industry’s growth has increased summit opportunities. Each spring climbing season sees dozens of expeditions, with experienced Sherpas often working for multiple teams.

Technology and equipment improvements have made repeat ascents more feasible. Modern oxygen systems, improved clothing, better weather forecasting, and established routes with fixed ropes reduce some risks. However, Everest remains extraordinarily dangerous. The mountain has claimed over 300 lives since Hillary and Norgay’s first ascent.

These record holders embody evolution from rare, groundbreaking expeditions to more regular, though still elite, mountaineering objectives. Their achievements don’t diminish what the first person summit Everest accomplished but rather build upon it, extending boundaries of human endurance in the planet’s most extreme environment.

The Evolution of Everest Climbing: From 1953 to Today

The 72 years since the historic first person to climb Everest moment have witnessed dramatic transformations in how people approach the world’s highest peak.

Access and Approach Changes

1953 Approach:

• Required months of approach marches through Nepal
• Expedition spent weeks walking from Kathmandu
• Carried massive quantities of supplies
• Limited communication with outside world

Modern Approach:

• Fly directly to Lukla airport in 35 minutes
• Begin Everest Base Camp trek immediately upon arrival
• Helicopter evacuations available for emergencies
• Satellite phones enable constant communication

Equipment Revolution

1953 Equipment:

• Leather boots and wool clothing
• Primitive oxygen systems weighing 14+ kilograms
• Basic rope and climbing gear
• No weather forecasting technology

Modern Equipment:

• Down suits rated to minus 60 degrees Celsius
• Lightweight Gore-Tex shells
• Plastic mountaineering boots
• Sophisticated oxygen delivery systems
• GPS navigation and satellite phones
• Weather forecasting apps

Pro Tip: While equipment has improved dramatically, proper acclimatisation remains crucial. Understanding how long it takes to climb Mount Everest, typically two months including acclimatisation, reveals sustained commitment required.

Commercialisation Impact

The commercialisation represents perhaps the most significant change:

• 1953: Only elite mountaineers with expedition backing attempted
• Today: Commercial operators guide paying clients
• Fees range from $30,000 to over $200,000
• Made Everest accessible to climbers with sufficient fitness and funds

Crowding Concerns

Statistics That Tell the Story:

• 1953 expedition: Roughly 400 people total including porters
• 2019 peak days: Over 200 climbers queued near summit
• 2019 permits: Nepal issued 381 Everest permits
• More permits in 2019 than all expeditions before 1970 combined

Crowding has led to dangerous delays and several deaths. The queues near the summit during peak weather windows create life-threatening situations in the death zone.

Environmental Impact

Decades of expeditions have severely impacted the mountain:

• Tonnes of abandoned waste and equipment
• Discarded oxygen bottles throughout routes
• Human waste accumulation at camps
• Recent cleanup efforts removed thousands of kilograms of rubbish

Responsible operators now require clients to bring all waste down and impose stricter environmental protocols. Conservation efforts focus on sustainable tourism and protecting the fragile ecosystem.

Climate Change Effects

Observable Changes:

• Khumbu Icefall increasingly unstable
• Glaciers retreating throughout the region
• Rock faces previously ice-covered now exposed
• Weather patterns more unpredictable
• Objective dangers beyond climbers’ control increasing

Sherpa Community Evolution

The Sherpa community’s role has evolved significantly:

• 1953: Worked primarily as porters
• Today: Recognised as elite mountaineers
• Essential expedition leaders
• Skilled guides handling most technical work
• Companies employ Sherpa teams fixing all ropes Base Camp to summit

Safety Improvements

Lessons From Tragedies:

• 1996 disaster: Eight climbers died during single storm
• Led to better weather forecasting
• Stricter guide-client ratios implemented
• Improved communication systems
• 2014 icefall avalanche: Killed 16 Sherpas
• Prompted discussions about risk distribution
• Improved compensation standards
• 2015 earthquake avalanche: 22 people killed at Base Camp
• Highlighted nature’s ultimate power

Despite all changes, Everest remains extraordinarily dangerous. The mountain still tests human limits, claims lives, and rewards successful climbers with profound personal transformation.

Planning Your Own Everest Journey: From Base Camp to Summit Dreams

The inspiring first summit Everest story motivates many to experience the mountain personally. Whilst summiting remains an elite objective requiring years of preparation, trekking to Base Camp offers accessible adventure for fit, determined travellers.

Everest Base Camp Trek Overview

Trek Basics:

• Duration: 12 to 14 days typically
• Maximum altitude: 5,364 metres at Base Camp
• Follows same valleys Hillary’s expedition traversed in 1953
• Offers profound historical connections
• Passes through Namche Bazaar, the Sherpa capital
• Visits Tengboche Monastery with spectacular mountain views

Pro Tip: The Everest Base Camp trek provides incredible Himalayan experience without technical climbing requirements. It’s perfect for experiencing the region’s natural beauty and Sherpa culture.

Physical Preparation

Training Timeline: Several Months Required

• Focus on cardiovascular fitness through hiking, running, or cycling
• Include strength training for legs and core
• Practice hiking at elevation if possible
• Most fitness can be developed at sea level
• Trek itself provides gradual acclimatisation with proper pacing

Best Seasons for Trekking

Spring (March to May):

• Warmer temperatures
• Rhododendron blooms throughout valleys
• Busier trails with more trekkers

Autumn (September to November):

• Clearer mountain views
• More stable weather patterns
• Peak trekking season

Off-Season Considerations:

• Winter: Extreme cold and heavy snow
• Monsoon: Poor visibility and rain
• Offers solitude and reduced costs
• Requires more experience and preparation

Budget Planning

Budget Trek: $1,200 to $1,500

• Includes flights, permits, accommodation, meals
• Basic teahouse accommodation
• Standard guide services

Mid-Range Trek: $2,000 to $3,000

• Better lodges and additional services
• More comfortable facilities
• Enhanced guide support

Luxury Trek: $5,000+

• High-end lodges where available
• Extensive support services
• Additional comfort amenities

Required Permits

Essential Permits:

• Sagarmatha National Park entry permit: $30
• Khumbu Pasang Lhamu Rural Municipality permit: $20
• Typically arranged through trekking company
• Solo trekkers obtain permits in Kathmandu or Monjo village

Guide Services Benefits

Why Hire a Guide:

• Navigate trails safely
• Arrange accommodation
• Handle emergencies effectively
• Share insights about culture and history
• Support benefits mountain communities directly
• Ensure expert assistance throughout trek

Pro Tip: Companies often combine guides with porter services, reducing your physical burden whilst providing employment to mountain residents, supporting local economy.

Altitude Sickness Prevention

Primary Health Risk: Altitude Sickness

Symptoms Include:

• Headaches
• Nausea
• Fatigue
• Sleep disturbances

Prevention Strategies:

• Ascend gradually following proper schedule
• Stay well-hydrated throughout trek
• Avoid alcohol consumption
• Follow “climb high, sleep low” principle
• If symptoms worsen, descend immediately
• Altitude sickness can become life-threatening rapidly

Accommodation Along the Route

Teahouse Lodging:

• Simple lodges offering basic rooms
• Communal dining areas
• Facilities more basic as altitude increases
• Electricity often limited to solar power
• Rooms cost $3 to $10 per night
• Meals purchased separately
• Camaraderie in dining rooms creates memorable experiences

Essential Packing List

Critical Items:

• Layered clothing for variable temperatures
• Quality hiking boots properly broken in
• Sleeping bag rated to minus 10 degrees Celsius
• Headlamp with extra batteries
• Water purification system
• First aid supplies
• High-altitude sunscreen SPF 50+
• Trekking companies provide detailed packing lists
• Rental equipment available in Kathmandu or Namche Bazaar

Cultural Preparation

Respectful Trekking:

• Learn basic Nepali phrases
• Understand Buddhist customs around monasteries and stupas
• Prevents unintentional offence
• Tip guides and porters appropriately
• Budget approximately $100 to $150 for tips per trekker for standard 12-day trek

Summit Expedition Considerations

For those dreaming of climbing Everest itself, the journey is far more complex. Requirements to climb Mount Everest include extensive high-altitude experience on other 7,000-plus metre peaks, technical climbing skills, substantial financial resources, and two months of time commitment.

Summit Expedition Reality:

• Climbing seasons strictly limited to May and sometimes September
• Expeditions arrive late March for acclimatisation
• Spend weeks doing rotations to progressively higher camps
• Summit push during narrow weather window
• Jet stream winds temporarily abate creating survivable conditions

Physical Toll:

• Climbers lose 5 to 10 kilograms during expeditions
• Consume over 5,000 calories daily
• Time spent above 8,000 metres causes irreversible bodily damage
• Frostbite, cerebral oedema, pulmonary oedema risks
• Exhaustion claims lives every climbing season

Ethical Considerations

Important Questions:

• Environmental impact of your journey
• Risks to Sherpa staff
• Commercialisation moral complexity
• Some argue climbing Everest no longer represents meaningful achievement
• Others maintain reaching summit remains profound personal accomplishment

Whether you trek to Base Camp or dream of summiting, approaching Everest with respect for the mountain, appreciation for local culture, and understanding of history enriches the experience. Hillary and Tenzing’s achievement opened these mountains to the world. Honouring their legacy means visiting responsibly and contributing positively to communities that welcome us.

Conclusion of first person summit Everest

The story of Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay continues inspiring adventurers seven decades after they shared the first person to climb Everest achievement on 29 May 1953. Their partnership exemplified courage, determination, and cross-cultural collaboration, establishing standards for Himalayan mountaineering that endure today.

Learning about remarkable Nepali Sherpas and who has climbed Everest the most times reveals how the mountain evolved from impossible objective to challenging but achievable goal for experienced mountaineers. Kami Rita Sherpa’s 30 summits demonstrate extraordinary capabilities of Nepal’s mountain communities, whose expertise makes modern expeditions possible.

The 1953 climb transformed Nepal into the world’s premier adventure destination, creating economic opportunities whilst presenting environmental and cultural challenges. As you plan your own journey, whether trekking to Base Camp or pursuing more ambitious objectives, remember the legacy of those who pioneered these routes and the communities who call these mountains home.Ready to walk in the footsteps of legends? Explore our comprehensive Mount Everest guides to begin planning your Himalayan adventure. Check our Everest Base Camp trekking guide for detailed itineraries, or discover how to find the best trekking guide in Nepal to enhance your experience.

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