Quick Overview of the South Col route Everest:
- Best Time to Visit: April to May (spring season)
- Success Rate: Approximately 56 to 60% on South Col route
- Technical Difficulty: Moderate to difficult with extreme altitude challenges
- Climbing Duration: 6 to 9 weeks total expedition time
- Key Challenge: Navigating Khumbu Icefall and death zone conditions
Standing at 8,848.86 meters, Mount Everest draws climbers worldwide to test their limits against Earth’s highest peak. The South Col route Everest remains the most popular path to the summit, pioneered by Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay in 1953. This legendary route from Nepal offers a structured camp to camp guide that has helped thousands achieve their mountaineering dreams. Every spring, hundreds of climbers gather at Everest Base Camp, preparing for the grueling journey through the Khumbu Icefall, across the Western Cwm, up the Lhotse Face, and finally through the treacherous South Col to reach the top of the world.
The South Col route attracts both seasoned mountaineers and ambitious first time Himalayan climbers because it provides better infrastructure, established camps, and more predictable weather patterns compared to the North Face route from Tibet. Understanding this classic route is essential for anyone seriously considering an Everest expedition.
What Makes the South Col Route Everest the Most Popular Climbing Path?
The South Col route Everest has earned its reputation as the standard route for good reasons. This path from Nepal’s Khumbu region offers a relatively straightforward technical approach compared to other faces of Everest, though straightforward remains a relative term at extreme altitude.
This route accounts for roughly 70 to 75% of all Everest summit attempts annually. The path follows a logical progression through established camps, each positioned at strategic elevations for proper acclimatization. Climbers benefit from decades of route optimization, with experienced Sherpa teams fixing ropes along dangerous sections before the main climbing season begins.
The South Col route provides better logistics support than alternatives. Lukla Airport offers relatively easy access to the Khumbu region, and the trail to Everest Base Camp passes through Sherpa villages where trekkers can acclimatize gradually. Commercial expedition companies have refined support systems over decades, establishing reliable supply chains and rescue protocols.
Weather patterns favor the South Col during spring months when the jet stream typically shifts northward, creating brief summit windows with manageable winds. The route also receives more sunlight than the North Face, making camps slightly warmer and reducing frostbite risks.
Pro Tip: Choose spring season (April to May) for your South Col route Everest attempt. Weather windows are more reliable, temperatures are manageable, and experienced Sherpa teams have already established fixed ropes and safe passages through the Khumbu Icefall.
Geographic Advantages of Nepal’s South Side
Nepal’s southern approach offers distinct geographical benefits that make this route more accessible. The Everest Base Camp sits at 5,364 meters, surrounded by established infrastructure including communications equipment, medical facilities, and comfortable tent accommodations.
The Khumbu Valley provides natural protection from harsh winds that batter the northern approaches. This sheltered positioning creates marginally better conditions for establishing camps and conducting climbs. The route’s orientation also means climbers face the morning sun earlier, which can be psychologically beneficial during exhausting summit pushes.
Trekking permits Nepal requirements are generally more straightforward for the South Col route. Climbers need to secure proper documentation through the Nepal Tourism Board, including the expensive Everest climbing permit which costs $11,000 per person for spring season. These permits come with certain support requirements that actually enhance safety through mandatory guide ratios and equipment standards.
Complete Camp to Camp Guide: Everest Base Camp to Summit
Understanding each camp’s role in your Everest base camp to summit journey is crucial for expedition success. The South Col route divides into six major stages, each presenting unique challenges and requiring specific preparations.
Everest Base Camp (5,364m): Your Expedition Home
Your Everest journey begins at Base Camp, which serves as expedition headquarters for 6 to 8 weeks. Located on the Khumbu Glacier, this temporary city houses hundreds of climbers, Sherpas, and support staff during peak season.
Key Features:
- Altitude: 5,364 meters above sea level
- Duration: 6 to 8 weeks expedition base
- Facilities: Heated dining tents, communications equipment, medical stations
- Purpose: Acclimatization rotations and equipment preparation
Here you’ll complete initial acclimatization rotations, practice using supplemental oxygen systems, and review technical climbing skills. Modern Base Camps feature surprisingly comfortable amenities including heated dining tents, communications equipment for weather updates, and WiFi capabilities for staying connected with families.
Expedition teams conduct thorough equipment checks at Base Camp. You’ll organize your personal gear into loads for higher camps, work with your climbing Sherpa to establish communication protocols, and participate in puja ceremonies that Sherpa communities consider essential for safe passage through the mountains.
Pro Tip: Spend your Base Camp time wisely. Practice with your oxygen mask and regulator systems daily. The more comfortable you become with your equipment at Base Camp, the easier it will be to manage in the death zone where every action feels exhausting.
Camp 1 (6,065m): Beyond the Khumbu Icefall
Reaching Camp 1 requires conquering the Khumbu Icefall, arguably the most dangerous section of the entire South Col route Everest. This constantly moving glacier creates a chaotic maze of seracs, crevasses, and ice towers that can collapse without warning.
Icefall Statistics:
- Climbing time: 4 to 6 hours from Base Camp
- Best departure time: 2 to 3 AM for stable ice conditions
- Danger level: Highest objective risk on entire route
- Movement rate: Glacier moves 1 to 1.5 meters daily
You’ll typically start icefall crossings around 2 to 3 AM, taking advantage of colder temperatures when ice is most stable. The climb through this section takes 4 to 6 hours, depending on conditions and traffic. Moving through the icefall demands intense concentration as you navigate ladder crossings over bottomless crevasses, climb vertical ice walls using fixed ropes and jumars, and scramble over unstable ice blocks.
Camp 1 sits on the glacier in the Western Cwm, a massive valley enclosed by towering walls of Everest, Lhotse, and Nuptse. The camp’s location at 6,065 meters marks your entry into serious altitude where acclimatization becomes critical.
Pro Tip: Move through the Khumbu Icefall with purpose but never rush. Clip and unclip from fixed ropes properly at every transition point. One moment of carelessness in the icefall can be fatal. Always complete your crossing before 7 AM when warming ice becomes dangerously unstable.
Camp 2 (6,400m): The Advanced Base
Camp 2 represents your advanced base, positioned at 6,400 meters in the upper Western Cwm. This camp offers relatively flat terrain and becomes a crucial staging point for summit pushes.
Camp 2 Details:
- Elevation: 6,400 meters
- Travel time from Camp 1: 5 to 6 hours
- Typical stay: 2 to 3 nights during acclimatization
- Conditions: Protected location but intense daytime heat
The journey from Camp 1 to Camp 2 covers approximately 5 to 6 hours of steady glacier travel. You’ll rope together with teammates, navigating crevasse fields and following wand-marked routes across the valley floor.
At Camp 2, you’re above 6,000 meters where the body begins experiencing significant physiological stress. Sleep becomes more difficult, appetite decreases, and recovery slows noticeably. However, Camp 2’s relatively protected position makes it the most comfortable of the high camps.
During acclimatization rotations, teams often spend 2 to 3 nights at Camp 2, making short forays toward Camp 3 to expose their bodies to higher elevations before descending to Base Camp for recovery. This climb high, sleep low strategy represents the foundation of proper Himalayan acclimatization.
Camp 3 (7,162m): The Lhotse Face Challenge
Camp 3 clings to the steep Lhotse Face at 7,162 meters, marking your entrance into the genuine high altitude environment where human bodies begin deteriorating rather than acclimatizing.
Lhotse Face Climbing:
- Face angle: 45 to 60 degrees
- Climbing time: 4 to 6 hours from Camp 2
- Vertical gain: 1,200 meters
- Technique: Fixed rope ascending on blue ice
Reaching this camp requires ascending the Lhotse Face, using fixed ropes and crampons to climb the steep ice wall. You’ll jumar up fixed ropes placed by Sherpa teams, kicking crampon points into hard blue ice while managing your breathing in the thin air.
Camp 3 consists of small platforms carved into the ice face, with tents anchored securely to prevent them sliding down the slope. The precarious positioning and extreme altitude make this one of the most uncomfortable camps on the route. Most climbers spend only one night here during acclimatization.
Pro Tip: Many experienced climbers skip Camp 3 during their final summit push, choosing instead to climb directly from Camp 2 to Camp 4 in one long day. This strategy reduces time spent at extreme altitude and improves overall summit success rates.
Camp 4 (7,950m): The South Col Death Zone
Camp 4 sits at 7,950 meters on the South Col, a windswept saddle between Everest and Lhotse. This camp marks your entry into the death zone where human survival becomes a race against physiological deterioration.
Death Zone Facts:
- Elevation: 7,950 meters
- Temperature: Often below negative 30°C
- Wind speeds: Can exceed 100 mph
- Oxygen levels: Approximately 33% of sea level
The climb from Camp 3 to Camp 4 traverses the upper Lhotse Face before reaching the South Col’s relatively flat terrain. This section includes the Yellow Band, a distinctive geological feature of yellow metamorphic rock, and the Geneva Spur, a rocky outcrop requiring scrambling skills.
Camp 4 offers no comfort whatsoever. The exposed location suffers constant high winds, and temperatures regularly drop below negative 30°C. Climbers typically arrive at Camp 4 in early afternoon, rest briefly, hydrate as much as possible, and prepare equipment for the summit push beginning around 9 to 11 PM that same night.
Pro Tip: At Camp 4, set up your oxygen system before sunset while you can still see clearly. Prepare your summit gear in an organized sequence. The less you have to think and problem solve in the death zone, the better. Every decision at this altitude drains precious mental and physical energy.
Summit Push (8,848.86m): The Final Challenge
The summit push from Camp 4 begins late evening, with most teams departing between 9 PM and midnight. This timing aims to reach the summit between 7 to 10 AM, ensuring climbers have sufficient daylight for the descent.
Summit Day Timeline:
- Departure from Camp 4: 9 PM to midnight
- Climbing duration: 7 to 12 hours to summit
- Summit arrival: 7 to 10 AM ideal window
- Descent time: 4 to 6 hours back to Camp 4
The route initially climbs the Triangular Face, a steep snow slope requiring sustained effort in the dark using headlamps. You’ll follow the fixed rope line, moving slowly and deliberately while managing your oxygen flow rate. The famous Southeast Ridge comes next, presenting a knife edge pathway with massive exposure on both sides.
The Hillary Step current status has changed dramatically since a 2015 earthquake altered this formerly near vertical rock section. The step now consists of a steep snow and rock passage that, while still challenging at extreme altitude, no longer presents the same technical bottleneck that historically created dangerous queues.
Above the Hillary Step, the final summit ridge extends toward the highest point on Earth. This last section involves steady climbing across snow slopes, with fixed ropes continuing to the summit itself. The final meters require intense mental focus as exhaustion, altitude, and excitement combine.
Pro Tip: Establish a strict turn around time of 2 PM regardless of how close you are to the summit. More climbers die descending than ascending. If you’re not on top by 2 PM, you must descend immediately. The mountain will be there next year, but you need to get home safely today.
Hillary Step Current Status: What Changed After 2015?
The Hillary Step current status remains a topic of significant interest among mountaineers familiar with Everest’s history. This 12 meter rock face near the summit presented one of the route’s most technical challenges for over 60 years.
Before 2015:
- Nearly vertical rock step at 8,790 meters
- Major bottleneck creating dangerous queues
- Required technical rock climbing skills
- Historic feature climbed by Hillary and Tenzing in 1953
The massive 7.8 magnitude earthquake that struck Nepal in April 2015 fundamentally altered the Hillary Step current status. Seismic activity and subsequent rockfall transformed the formerly distinct rock step into a more gradual snow and rock slope.
After 2015:
- Modified to snow and rock slope configuration
- Eliminated major bottleneck issues
- Smoother traffic flow during busy summit days
- Still requires solid crampon and rope work skills
The current configuration eliminates the significant bottleneck that historically formed at the step during busy summit days. Previously, climbers would queue for hours waiting their turn, burning precious oxygen supplies and increasing exposure to extreme altitude. The modified terrain allows for smoother traffic flow.
Fixed ropes now run continuously through this section, and experienced Sherpa teams maintain the route throughout the climbing season. The passage requires solid crampon technique and comfortable rope work, but no longer presents the same technical rock climbing challenge that defined the Hillary Step current status for six decades.
Essential Logistics: Permits, Preparation, and Timing
Successfully climbing the South Col route Everest requires meticulous planning and proper documentation. The logistics involved extend far beyond physical fitness and technical climbing ability.
Required Permits and Documentation
Trekking Permits Nepal Requirements:
- Everest mountaineering permit: $11,000 (spring season)
- Sagarmatha National Park entry permit: $30
- Khumbu Pasang Lhamu Rural Municipality permit: Required
- Registered expedition company: Mandatory for foreign climbers
Permit applications require supporting documents including proof of mountaineering experience on peaks above 6,500 meters, comprehensive medical insurance covering helicopter evacuation from extreme altitude, and detailed expedition plans.
Physical Preparation Timeline
12 to 18 Months Before Expedition:
- Develop cardiovascular endurance through running, cycling, weighted stair climbing
- Build leg, core, and upper body strength
- Complete practice climbs on peaks above 4,000 meters
- Gain experience on at least one 6,000 meter peak
Technical Skills Needed:
- Proficiency with crampon and ice axe use
- Fixed rope ascending and descending
- Crevasse rescue techniques
- High altitude camping experience
- Supplemental oxygen system operation
Pro Tip: Complete at least two high altitude climbs (6,000 meters plus) before attempting the South Col route Everest. Your body needs exposure to extreme altitude to understand how it responds. Learn your personal altitude limits and warning signs in a less extreme environment first.
Best Season for South Col Route Attempts
Spring season (April to May) offers the most reliable summit conditions on the South Col route Everest. During this period, the jet stream typically shifts northward, creating brief weather windows with lower winds and clearer skies.
Spring Season (April to May):
- Best weather windows and highest success rates
- Temperature range: negative 20°C to negative 40°C
- Lower wind speeds during summit windows
- Most established support infrastructure
Autumn Season (September to October):
- Secondary climbing period with fewer crowds
- Less predictable weather patterns
- Increased snowfall and avalanche risk
- Good option for experienced climbers seeking solitude
May historically provides the highest summit success rates, particularly during the second and third weeks when weather patterns stabilize. The famous summit window usually opens in mid May, lasting anywhere from several days to two weeks.
Understanding the Khumbu Icefall Danger
The Khumbu Icefall represents the single most hazardous section of the South Col route Everest, accounting for a disproportionate number of climbing accidents and fatalities. This massive icefall flows from the Western Cwm down to Base Camp, moving an average of 1 to 1.5 meters daily.
Khumbu Icefall Risks:
- Constantly shifting terrain with daily movement
- House sized seracs that can topple without warning
- Deep crevasses opening suddenly
- Ice bridges collapsing under climber weight
- Approximately 1 in 30 Everest deaths occur here
The icefall’s dangers stem from its fundamental instability. As glacier ice moves downward, it fractures into massive seracs that can topple without warning. Deep crevasses open suddenly, and ice bridges collapse under climbers’ weight.
Experienced icefall doctors, typically highly skilled Sherpas, establish and maintain the route through this chaos each season. They place fixed ropes along relatively stable pathways, position aluminum ladders across crevasses, and mark the safest route with wands and flags.
Crossing Strategy:
- Start between 2 to 4 AM for maximum ice stability
- Complete crossing by 7 to 8 AM before warming
- Move with purpose but never rush
- Clip properly to fixed ropes at every transition
- Cross ladders one person at a time
Your icefall crossings typically occur in pre dawn darkness, which adds psychological stress but significantly reduces objective danger. As the sun rises and warms the ice, serac collapse and ice movement accelerate dramatically.
Pro Tip: Practice ladder crossings extensively before your first icefall attempt. Set up multiple ladders at Base Camp and cross them repeatedly with full climbing gear and crampons. Confidence on ladders reduces stress and speeds your movement through the most dangerous sections.
Pro Tips for South Col Route Success
Successfully completing the Everest base camp to summit journey requires more than just physical fitness. These practical strategies can significantly improve your chances of reaching the top safely.
Acclimatization Strategy
Follow the climb high, sleep low principle religiously. Make multiple rotations to progressively higher camps before your summit push, spending nights at lower elevations between rotations. Plan for at least three acclimatization rotations reaching Camp 1, Camp 2, and Camp 3 before attempting your summit bid.
Rotation Schedule:
- Rotation 1: Base Camp to Camp 1 and return
- Rotation 2: Base Camp to Camp 2 and return
- Rotation 3: Base Camp to Camp 3 and return
- Rest period: 5 to 7 days at Base Camp
- Summit push: Base Camp to Camp 2 to Camp 4 to Summit
Hydration and Nutrition
Force yourself to drink 4 to 5 liters of water daily, even when you’re not thirsty. Dehydration at altitude dramatically increases your risk of frostbite, altitude sickness, and poor decision making.
Daily Hydration Goals:
- Base Camp to Camp 2: 4 to 5 liters minimum
- Camp 3 and above: 3 to 4 liters (difficult but essential)
- Summit day: Drink continuously despite difficulty
- Use electrolyte supplements to improve absorption
Equipment Redundancy
Bring backup systems for critical items including headlamps, gloves, oxygen regulators, and down jackets. The cold at extreme altitude can cause equipment failures, and redundancy might save your life.
Essential Backups:
- Two headlamps with extra batteries
- Three pairs of insulated gloves
- Spare oxygen regulator and mask
- Emergency down jacket stored in summit pack
- Multiple lighters for melting snow
Weather Monitoring
Stay closely connected with your expedition leader’s weather forecasting. Understanding the forecast helps you mentally prepare for summit day conditions and recognize when weather deteriorates beyond safe climbing parameters.
Sherpa Partnership
Develop a strong working relationship with your climbing Sherpa. These experienced professionals know the South Col route Everest intimately and can provide crucial support when you’re most exhausted. Learn basic Nepali phrases, respect their cultural practices, and listen to their advice about mountain conditions.
Pro Tip: Trust your Sherpa’s judgment completely. If they say conditions are too dangerous or you’re moving too slowly, listen immediately. Sherpas have seen countless climbers and know the difference between someone who can summit safely and someone who’s pushing beyond their limits.
FAQs About South Col route Everest
How long does South Col route Everest take?
Complete expeditions require 6 to 9 weeks, including acclimatization. Summit day from Camp 4 takes 10 to 16 hours round trip to top and back.
Can beginners climb this route?
No. South Col route Everest requires extensive mountaineering experience with prior summits of 6,000m plus peaks and proven high altitude performance.
What changed at Hillary Step?
The 2015 earthquake altered Hillary Step current status from vertical rock to mixed snow slope, eliminating the severe bottleneck problem.
How many camps to summit?
The route includes Base Camp plus four high camps (Camp 1 through 4) before final summit push across death zone terrain.
When is best time to climb?
May offers optimal conditions. Spring season April to May sees highest success rates with stable weather and lower wind speeds.
What permits are needed?
Everest permit costs $11,000 spring season. Also need Sagarmatha Park permit and local permits through registered expedition companies.
Is South Col safer than North?
Both routes present extreme dangers. South Col offers better rescue options but includes dangerous Khumbu Icefall obstacle.
How much experience needed?
Most companies require multiple 6,000m summits, technical ice climbing skills, and proven ability to perform at extreme altitude.
What is the success rate?
Success rates fluctuate 56 to 60% depending on season. Individual fitness and acclimatization quality heavily influence chances.
Can you see the full route?
From Base Camp you see icefall and Western Cwm sections. Higher sections remain hidden. Full camp to camp guide becomes clear as you climb.
Your Path to the Top of the World
The South Col route Everest represents more than just a mountaineering challenge. It’s a journey that tests every dimension of human capability. From your first steps into the Khumbu Icefall to the final exhausting meters below the summit, this route demands physical strength, mental resilience, technical skill, and unwavering determination.
Success on this route requires careful preparation, proper acclimatization, experienced support, and favorable weather. Understanding each section from Everest base camp to summit helps you prepare mentally and physically for the challenges ahead. The modified Hillary Step current status may have changed one historic feature, but the route’s overall difficulty and danger remain as serious as ever.
Whether you’re planning your first Himalayan expedition or dreaming of Everest from afar, the South Col route continues to represent mountaineering’s ultimate challenge. Respect the mountain, prepare thoroughly, listen to experienced guides, and never let summit fever compromise your safety.
Ready to start planning? Explore our Everest Base Camp Trekking Guide for Beginners to prepare for your first steps, learn about Essential Requirements to Climb Mt Everest to ensure you meet all prerequisites, and understand How Long Does It Take to Climb Mount Everest for complete timeline planning.