Imagine waking at 4,130 metres, tucked inside a wool blanket in a tin-roofed lodge, while your guide bangs on the door and whispers, “Sunrise is close, hurry.” That is how most mornings begin on the Mardi Himal and Poon Hill trek, one of the most rewarding short adventures in Nepal’s Annapurna region. Nepal is home to eight of the world’s fourteen highest peaks, and this combined route lets you stand close to several of them without needing a month off work.
This trek is not just about ticking off a viewpoint. It stitches together the world-famous sunrise at Poon Hill with the quieter, ridge-top drama of Mardi Himal Base Camp, passing through Gurung villages, rhododendron forests, and terraced farmland along the way. Whether you are a first-time trekker in Nepal or a returning hiker chasing something less crowded than Annapurna Base Camp, this guide covers the route, the poon hill trek itinerary, permits, costs, and the honest, on-the-ground details that most packages leave out.
Quick Overview:
- Best time to trek: October to November and March to April
- Typical duration: 8 to 12 days depending on your pace
- Highest point: Mardi Himal Base Camp at 4,500 metres
- Average cost: $500 to $900 for a guided teahouse trek
What Is the Mardi Himal and Poon Hill Trek?
The Mardi Himal and Poon Hill trek combines two separate trails inside the Annapurna Conservation Area into one continuous journey. Trekkers begin on the well-established Poon Hill route, known for its stone staircases and sweeping sunrise views, then branch off toward the newer and far quieter Mardi Himal trail. Together, the two routes offer a complete cross-section of the Annapurna region: dense forest, alpine ridges, and traditional villages home to the Gurung and Magar communities.
Local guide Kamal Gurung, who has led trekkers through Ghandruk and Landruk for over a decade, describes it simply. “Poon Hill is where you meet Nepal’s mountains for the first time. Mardi Himal is where you sit with them a little longer, without the crowds.” That contrast, one trail busy and social, the other narrow and reflective, is exactly why so many travellers now request both routes in a single itinerary rather than choosing just one.
Poon Hill Trek: Nepal’s Classic Sunrise Walk
Poon Hill sits at 3,210 metres above Ghorepani village and remains one of Nepal’s most visited viewpoints. From here, trekkers watch the sun rise over Annapurna South, Dhaulagiri, Machapuchare (Fishtail), and Hiunchuli in a single sweeping panorama. The route to Ghorepani follows stone steps through Tikhedhunga and Ulleri, passing terraced fields and rhododendron forests that bloom bright red and pink each spring. It is a well-marked, teahouse-lined trail, which makes it a comfortable introduction for anyone new to Himalayan trekking.
Mardi Himal: The Quiet Ridge to Fishtail
Mardi Himal Base Camp, by contrast, sits at 4,500 metres and was only opened to trekkers in the last two decades, making it far less developed than the Annapurna Circuit or Everest Base Camp trails. The path narrows into a ridge above Low Camp and High Camp, with Machapuchare rising so close it feels close enough to touch. Fewer teahouses and thinner crowds mean a more solitary experience, though it also means trekkers should book accommodation in advance during autumn and spring.
Poon Hill Trek From Pokhara: How the Journey Begins
Most travellers start their poon hill trek from Pokhara, the lakeside city that serves as the gateway to the Annapurna region. From Pokhara, a short drive of around one hour brings you to Nayapul, where the trailhead officially begins. If you are planning your route through Kathmandu first, budget a full day for the scenic drive or a quick mountain flight to Pokhara before starting the trek itself.
Choosing to begin your poon hill trek from Pokhara rather than Kathmandu saves at least a full day of travel, since Pokhara sits far closer to the Annapurna Conservation Area entry point. Before setting off, many trekkers spend a morning beside Phewa Lake, arranging permits and last minute gear at one of the outdoor shops in Lakeside. If lake scenery interests you beyond this trek, our guide to Nepal’s lakes covers Phewa and other scenic waters worth visiting before or after your walk.
The trail from Nayapul follows the Modi Khola river to Birethanti, a bustling checkpoint town where officials verify your Annapurna Conservation Area Permit. From there, the path climbs gradually through farming villages before the terrain steepens. Because so many trekkers begin their poon hill trek from Pokhara on the same morning, expect a sociable start to the day, with fellow hikers, porters, and mule trains sharing the same dusty road toward the hills.
Getting to Birethanti and Ulleri’s Stone Steps
Birethanti marks the first real taste of the trail’s rhythm: suspension bridges, mule trains carrying supplies, and small tea shops selling milk tea to passing trekkers. Beyond Birethanti, the trail reaches Tikhedhunga before the famous climb to Ulleri begins, a punishing set of roughly 3,000 stone steps that gains significant elevation in a short distance. Most first-time trekkers find this the toughest single stretch of the entire journey, tougher even than the final push to Mardi Himal Base Camp.
Kamal, the guide mentioned earlier, tells his groups to treat Ulleri as a test rather than an obstacle. “If you can manage those steps calmly, drinking water and going slowly, your body is ready for what comes later at Mardi.” Beyond Ulleri, the trail eases into forest paths leading to Ghorepani, where most trekkers rest before the early morning walk up to Poon Hill.
Mardi Himal and Poon Hill Trek Itinerary
A realistic poon hill trek itinerary combined with Mardi Himal typically runs between 8 and 12 days, depending on your fitness, pace, and whether you add acclimatisation days. Below is a sample itinerary that balances a reasonable daily walking time of 5 to 6 hours with proper altitude adjustment.
Sample 10 Day Itinerary:
- Drive from Kathmandu to Pokhara (6 to 7 hours) or take a short flight
- Drive to Nayapul, trek to Tikhedhunga (1,540m)
- Tikhedhunga to Ghorepani (2,860m) via the Ulleri stone steps
- Sunrise hike to Poon Hill (3,210m), continue to Tadapani
- Tadapani to Landruk, entering the Mardi Himal side trail
- Landruk to Forest Camp (2,600m) through rhododendron woodland
- Forest Camp to High Camp (3,580m)
- High Camp to Mardi Himal Base Camp (4,500m) and back down to Low Camp
- Low Camp descend to Siding village, drive to Pokhara
- Drive or fly back to Kathmandu
Trekkers with more time available often add a rest day at Low Camp or Forest Camp for acclimatisation, extending the trip to 12 days. If you are combining this route with a longer circuit, our guide to the Annapurna region covers how this trail connects with the wider Annapurna Sanctuary system.
A Shorter Poon Hill Trek Itinerary, If Time Is Limited
If your schedule cannot stretch to 10 or 12 days, a standalone poon hill trek itinerary is a practical alternative. A 4 to 5 day poon hill trek itinerary covers Nayapul to Tikhedhunga, Ghorepani, the Poon Hill sunrise, and a return via Ghandruk, without the extension into Mardi Himal territory. This shorter poon hill trek itinerary suits travellers with limited holiday time or those trekking with children and older family members, while still delivering the signature sunrise views that make the region famous. Many guiding agencies in Pokhara can adapt either itinerary on short notice, since both trails share the same starting point at Nayapul.
Best Time to Trek Mardi Himal and Poon Hill
Choosing the right season shapes almost everything about this trek, from trail visibility to how crowded the teahouses feel. The Annapurna region experiences four distinct seasons, but two stand out clearly for trekking comfort.
Autumn (October to November)
Autumn brings the clearest mountain views of the year, with stable weather following the summer monsoon. Daytime temperatures on the trail sit between 15 and 20 degrees Celsius at lower elevations, dropping toward freezing near Mardi Himal Base Camp at night. This is peak season, so booking teahouses ahead in Ghorepani and High Camp is worth the extra effort.
Spring (March to April)
Spring rewards trekkers with blooming rhododendron forests, particularly along the trail between Ulleri and Ghorepani, where entire hillsides turn shades of red and pink. Visibility is generally good, though afternoon haze can occasionally soften mountain views compared to autumn’s crisp skies. Many photographers prefer spring specifically for this floral backdrop against snow capped peaks.
Winter trekking is possible but demands proper cold weather gear, since High Camp regularly drops below minus 10 degrees Celsius overnight. Monsoon season, from June to August, brings leeches, slippery stone steps, and obscured mountain views, making it the least recommended window for this particular route.
Permits and Costs for the Trek
Every foreign trekker needs an Annapurna Conservation Area Permit (ACAP) to enter the region, priced at roughly NPR 3,000 (around $25) per person. According to the Nepal Tourism Board, this fee directly funds conservation work, trail maintenance, and community development projects across the Annapurna Conservation Area.
ACAP Permit Requirements
The ACAP permit requires a passport copy and a passport-sized photo, and it can be arranged in Kathmandu, Pokhara, or through a licensed trekking agency. Since 2023, Nepal has also required all independent trekkers in the Annapurna region to hire a licensed guide, a rule enforced consistently at checkpoints in Birethanti, Ghorepani, and Ghandruk.
TIMS Card and Budgeting
The TIMS (Trekkers’ Information Management System) card was historically required alongside ACAP, though enforcement on Annapurna trails has become inconsistent in recent seasons. It is worth confirming the current requirement with your agency or the Nepal Tourism Board office before departure, since rules occasionally shift year to year. Beyond permits, budget $25 to $35 per day for teahouse accommodation, meals, and hot showers, plus separate costs for a guide or porter if you are not trekking independently. A full 10-day guided trek typically totals between $500 and $900, excluding international flights and travel insurance.
How Difficult Is the Combined Trek?
This trek carries a moderate difficulty rating, sitting between an easy valley walk and a demanding high-altitude expedition. Daily walking hours range from 5 to 7, across a mix of stone steps, forest trails, and rocky ridgelines above Forest Camp. No technical climbing skills or equipment are required, but reasonable fitness and mental readiness for consecutive trekking days matter more than raw athletic ability.
Altitude and Acclimatization
Altitude sickness becomes a genuine consideration once you climb above 3,000 metres, particularly on the push from High Camp to Mardi Himal Base Camp at 4,500 metres. Symptoms like headache, nausea, or breathlessness usually signal that your body needs rest, not more elevation. Drinking 3 to 4 litres of water daily, walking at a steady pace, and adding a buffer day at Low Camp all reduce this risk considerably. If symptoms worsen, descending quickly to a lower elevation such as Siding or Landruk remains the safest response.
Choosing the Right Guide for Your Trek
Since a licensed guide is now mandatory throughout the Annapurna Conservation Area, choosing the right person to walk beside you matters as much as choosing the right season. A good guide reads weather changes, paces your acclimatisation, and often opens doors to cultural moments a solo traveller would otherwise miss, like an invitation to share dal bhat in a Gurung kitchen. Some travellers, particularly solo women, specifically look for female guides for comfort and shared perspective on the trail. Our detailed guide on how to find a female trekking guide in Nepal walks through where to search, what questions to ask, and how to verify a guide’s licence before booking.
Where to Stay: Teahouses Along the Route
Teahouses along the Poon Hill section are well established, offering private rooms, hot showers, and varied menus including dal bhat, noodle soup, and momos. Once the trail branches toward Mardi Himal past Forest Camp, accommodation becomes simpler: shared rooms, thinner walls, and more basic bathroom facilities. Charging and WiFi are usually available at both lower and higher teahouses, though expect a small per hour fee as elevation increases. Booking ahead during October and November prevents the disappointment of arriving at a fully booked lodge after a long day’s walk.
Cultural Encounters in Gurung and Magar Villages
Beyond the mountain views, this route offers genuine cultural depth through villages like Ghandruk and Landruk, both historically Gurung settlements. Ghandruk in particular houses a small community museum documenting Gurung history, traditional dress, and the region’s long relationship with Gurkha military service. Kamal Gurung, whose own family has lived in Landruk for three generations, often points out the difference between how tourism has shaped Ghandruk compared to the still quiet villages closer to Mardi Himal.
“In Ghandruk, my grandmother’s generation started renting rooms to trekkers in the 1980s,” he explains. “Near Mardi, that same shift is only happening now. You are seeing what Ghandruk looked like forty years ago.” This kind of firsthand cultural insight, shared by guides who grew up along the trail, adds a layer of authenticity that no guidebook description can fully replace. For travellers interested in extending their cultural exploration beyond the Annapurna region, our guide to Kathmandu’s heritage sites offers a natural next stop before or after the trek.
Pro Tips for Packing and Preparation
Packing correctly makes a measurable difference in comfort, especially once temperatures drop near High Camp and Mardi Himal Base Camp.
Essential Gear for the Mardi Himal and Poon Hill Trek:
- A sleeping bag rated to at least minus 10 degrees Celsius
- Layered clothing with a waterproof outer shell
- Sturdy, broken-in trekking boots with ankle support
- Trekking poles, particularly useful on the Ulleri stone steps
- A headlamp for the early morning walk up to Poon Hill
- Water purification tablets or a filter bottle
- High-altitude sunscreen and sunglasses for glacier glare
Pro tip: pack a lightweight down jacket even during spring, since temperatures at High Camp and Mardi Himal Base Camp can swing 20 degrees Celsius between midday sun and post-sunset cold. A small first aid kit with basic altitude sickness medication, approved by your doctor before travel, is worth the extra weight.
Extend Your Trip: Other Trails Worth Exploring
Nepal rewards travellers who stay a little longer, and the Annapurna region is only one piece of the country’s trekking landscape. If the quiet ridgelines of Mardi Himal appealed to you, the remote, high desert trails of Upper Mustang offer a similarly uncrowded experience, though with a starkly different, arid landscape. Travellers drawn to glacier-fed valleys and Tamang villages often continue toward Langtang, a region closer to Kathmandu than the Annapurna trails. For those with mountaineering ambitions beyond teahouse trekking, our coverage of the Mount Everest region details permits, costs, and route planning for the Khumbu. And if you would rather watch the mountains before walking among them, our collection of Nepal travel videos gives a visual preview of what awaits on the trail.
Frequently Asked Questions
How many days does the Mardi Himal and Poon Hill trek take?
Most itineraries run between 8 and 12 days, including Kathmandu to Pokhara travel days, with 12 days allowing a more relaxed pace and a built-in acclimatisation day.
Is this trek suitable for beginners?
Yes, with reasonable fitness preparation. The Poon Hill section is beginner-friendly, while the Mardi Himal extension demands slightly more stamina and comfort with steeper, rockier terrain above 3,500 metres.
What is the maximum altitude reached?
Mardi Himal Base Camp at 4,500 metres is the highest point, compared to Poon Hill’s 3,210 metres.
Do I need a guide for this trek?
Yes, current Nepal government regulations require all foreign trekkers in the Annapurna Conservation Area to trek with a licensed guide.
Can I do Poon Hill and Mardi Himal as separate, shorter treks?
Yes, both routes work independently if time is limited, though combining them avoids backtracking and makes efficient use of shared trail sections between Ghorepani and Landruk. A short poon hill trek itinerary alone can be completed in 4 to 5 days.
Is it better to start the poon hill trek from Pokhara or Kathmandu?
Starting your poon hill trek from Pokhara is faster and more practical, since Pokhara sits within an hour’s drive of the Nayapul trailhead, while Kathmandu requires a full extra day of travel.
What should a good poon hill trek itinerary include?
A well planned poon hill trek itinerary should include at least one buffer day for weather delays, a realistic daily walking pace of 5 to 6 hours, and confirmed teahouse bookings during the busy autumn and spring months.
Final Thoughts
The Mardi Himal and Poon Hill trek rewards travellers with two distinct sides of the Annapurna region in a single, manageable journey. One trail hums with the energy of stone steps, sunrise crowds, and village life. The other offers something quieter: a narrow ridge, a closer view of Machapuchare, and space to actually notice how you feel standing at 4,500 metres.
Whether you are drawn by the classic sunrise at Poon Hill or the solitude of Mardi Himal’s high ridges, this combined route delivers a complete Himalayan experience without requiring a month-long expedition. Ready to start planning? Browse our full collection of Nepal trekking guides or explore the wider Annapurna trekking region to build the itinerary that fits your travel dates and fitness level.
